TL;DR;
_____________________________________INTROWe all know that the ideal CR (Crit Rate) to CD (Crit Damage) ratio is 1 to 2. But what is the ideal Crit to Attack% ratio?It's a much harder question, and most people just prefer to follow the rule that CR > CD > Atk% (crit rate is always better than crit damage and crit damage is always better than attack%). Which is a good enough for most of the cases, but is not always true. It's very easy to see if you take a brand new character with 100 base attack, 5% CR, 50% CD and 0% Atk bonuses. The character deals 100*(1+5%*50%) = 102.5 damage on average. You can increase the damage by 10% with just 10 Atk%: 100*(1+10%)(1+5%*50%) = 112.75. To make the same with CR increase you need +20% CR, which is a looot: 100*(1+0%)(1+(5+20)%*50%) = 112.5. But, to make the same damage with CD increase you need +200% more CD! 100*(1+0%)(1+5%*(50+200)%) = 12.75. Which is just mind blowing difference comparing to +10% Atk. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ BASICSSo clearly there is a line where Atk% can be better than CD and even than CR. Let's figure out what is this line.First let's give a few definitions and rid of everything we don't need, for example, Elemental bonus damage even though can increase the character damage has nothing to do with Atk vs Crit balance. We will be interested only in the part of the damage formula: DMGFactor = (1 + FlatAtk/BaseAtk + Atk%)*(1 + CR*CD), where BaseAtk is a sum of the character and weapon base attack (some equipment can change this value as well, but this is a rare case). FlatAtk is a flat damage bonuses, like from the feather or Atk sub stat. We combine the Atk bonuses together: AtkBonus% = FlatAtk/BaseAtk + Atk% this value is quite easy to check, you just go to your character details and divide green number by white number: AtkBonus% = 2281/828 = 275.5% and the damage formula becomes DMGFactor = (1 + AtkBonus%)*(1 + CR*CD), The next step is to realize, that CR, Atk% and CD on your equipment comes at the different amounts. As the headpiece maxed main stat you can get 62.2% Crit Damage, or only 46.6% Atk, or even less Crit Rate - 31.1%. CR, Atk% and CD come at 1 to 1.5 to 2 ratio on all artifact stats and sub stats, and even weapons of the same quality. So every time we want to get 31.1% Crit Rate we lose either 46.6% Atk or 62.2% Crit Damage. Crit Rate : Atk% : Crit Damage ratio = 1 : 1.5 : 2 To track this fact I would like to introduce a parameter StatsPool = AtkBonus% / 46.6% + CR / 31.1% + CD / 62.2% basically it shows the gear quality in terms of amount of CR, Atk and CD. Higher an artifact level is higher it's StatsPool is, but if you change a CR to CD or Atk% on the artifact it's StatsPool will stay the same. For example, consider a flower with 299 HP, 23 Def, 5.8% Atk and 23.4% CR that means that we got 5* flower with 4 substats, which rolled to the maximum possible values (you can't get more than 299HP, 23 Def, 3.9% CR and 5.8 Atk% on a substat) and then it rolled 5 times into CR, every time increasing CR by maximum possible value of 3.9%. Flower2 which has CD instead of CR and a different amount is equally hard to get, you need to get 5* flower with 4 substats, which rolled to the maximum possible values and then rolled 5 times into CD, every time increasing CD by maximum possible value of 7.8%. So from the statistics point of view both flowers are the same, and this is represented by the same StatsPool values. Flowers of the same statspool level ________________________________________________________________ FINDING OPTIMUM (MATH)Now our task can be formulated as finding the highest DMGFactor for a gear with a fixed StatsPool.If we forget about Atk% for a moment and think only about CR and CD we can get the famous 1 : 2 ratio. Imagine we have two pieces of gear of the same StatsPool. They differer only in CR and CD: first has CR1 = x% and CD1 = y% and another has CR2 = x%+1% and another with CD2 = z%. Since they both have the same StatsPool and the same Atk%, then: AtkBonus / 46.6% + CR1 / 31.1% + CD1 / 62.2% = AtkBonus / 46.6% + CR2 / 31.1% + CD2 / 62.2% 2*CR1 + CD1 = 2*CR2 + CD2 2*x + y = 2*(x+1%) + z y = 2% + z z = y - 2% now compare DMGFactors: DMGFactor1 = AtkFactor*(1 + x*y) DMGFactor2 = AtkFactor*(1 + (x+1%)*(y-2%)) = AtkFactor*(1 + x*y-x*2%+y*1%-1%*2%) = AtkFactor*(1 + x*y + 0.01*(y-2*x)-0.0002) As you can see when y = 2*x and only then DMGFactor2 is always less than DMGFactor1. I.e. once we have we have 1 to 2 ratio doesn't matter whether we convert stats from CR to CD or backwards we will deal less damage. 1 to 2 ratio - is the optimum. In the same way we can write down a conversion of Atk% stat to Crit stats in the way that StatsPool stays the same: 1.5% Atk becomes 1% CR. To keep 1:2 CR:CD ratio we also convert another 1.5% Atk to 2% CD: DMGFactor1 = (1+AtkBonus)*(1 + x*y) DMGFactor2 = (1+AtkBonus-3%)*(1 + (x+1%)*(y+2%)) with some math we can find out that DMGFactor1 - DMGFactor2 = (1+AtkBonus)*(CD+2*CR) - 3*(1+CR*CD) + ( 0.03*CD+0.06*CR+0.01*AtkBonus + 0.0006 - 0.01) This shows that extremum is achieved when AtkBonus = 3*(1+CR*CD)/(CD+2*CR) - 1 so here how it looks like: https://preview.redd.it/qlzpmcqydl361.png?width=701&format=png&auto=webp&s=02eb890ea2e677499dd57067365dde101ec2d783 It can be checked that the AtkBonus values for part of the table with CR > 40% is optimal - if you convert part of the atk to crit or backwards - DMGFactor goes down. I.e. those are the best stats combinations for a given StatsPools. As for the part with CR < 40% those are the opposite extremums - the worst stats combination for a given statsPools. You should ignore them. Note two things: a) AtkBonus < 112% is never optimal. I.e. you should have at least 112% before going for crits. b) There are no StatsPools below 5.73. I.e. if your gear is under-leveled you can't achieve the optimum. Even with the luckiest rolls you simply don't have enough stats for Crit to start working! Here for example your options with StatsPool = 5. You can see that the maximum damage is achieved when you max Atk as much as possible. When StatsPool = 5, increasing Crit (at the cost of the attack) reduces damage Don't get me wrong. It doesn't mean that a low level gear w/o crit is always better than a gear with crit. It means that a gear with atk% instead of the crit is always better. If you can get both - it's still better than to have only one. ________________________________________________________________ Ideal ArtifactsLet's see how much StatsPools we can actually get with each gear level.As an example I consider Lvl90 Razor with Lvl90 Prototype Animus. The best artifact set you can get is Gladiator with Atk% on Clocks, Phys Dmg on Goblet and Crit Rate% on headpiece. For the substats you can get 4 at the start + 5 upgrades till level 20. You can't get the same substats as the main stat. And the only substats, which increase our StatsPool value are: CR, CD, Atk% and Atk. Also it should have balanced CR and CD for the 1 to 2 ratio. So here how it looks like: https://preview.redd.it/xu2wxkwrhl361.png?width=684&format=png&auto=webp&s=3b878b3bd106561309e6ec0bf4592d1d0434f25c So maximum StatsPool for Razor with Animus is 9.74. Which is even more than we had in the optimization table. But we have 95% Crit Rate in the table. The optimal AtkBonus for that crit rate is 121%, which is much lower than what we have. So theoretically you would need to convert part of the attack into crit here, unfortunately on the artifacts we have the lowest possible atk (only one roll into each stat), so we can't do it and there by this Aftifact set is optimal, changing CR to atk or CD won't increase damage: We lose damage with atk headpiece and get the same damage with CD headpiece - if we compensate the change with substats change. Ok. How about 4* artifacts? I used Lvl80 Razor with Lvl80 Prototype Animus with Berserker and Sojourn sets. The best roll would be: https://preview.redd.it/a8b627dxtl361.png?width=680&format=png&auto=webp&s=027220d8d97cc02c037278176421a7cfe18edeef StatsPool is quite high - 7.47 and if we switch headpiece to atk%, we lose a bit of the damage. We lose damage with atk headpiece, but just a little bit Switching headpiece to CD won't change anything, since then we can switch substats to CR to the same result. The same damage with CD headpiece - if we compensate the change with substats change. 3* artifacts have only 5.13 StatsPool, which is less than the 5.73 borderline. Thereby switching to attack gives more damage. Also converting CR into CD gives less damage, since it worse CD/CR ratio. On Idealistic 3* artifacts all stats about of the same importance with 3* artifacts you have only 5.13 StatsPool, which is less than the 5.73 borderline. ________________________________________________________________ Realistic ArtifactsThe best possible artifacts is a good both as concrete example and as an upper limit on what you can achieve, but in reality you will get significantly worse artifacts, even if you try hard to optimize them.To make the estimation more realistic I assumed that: - Substats roll an average value (max+min)/2, not the max value. - Typically you will miss at least on 1 att/crit related substat. - You can get all stats on one of the artifacts (for example on Flower and Feather you don't have to roll for the main stat, so it is easier) - You can get max number of initial stats on +0 lvl artifact. - Rolls when you level artifact go into all substats with the same probability. All this is also very hard to get, and i bet most of us have worse artifacts, but this already looks possible to get with enough rolls. This way we can get a "theoretically average artifact", like this: \"Theoretically average\" 5* artifact. Note, that specifics doesn't matter. You can miss Atk% on the Feather, or Flower, or Goblet - the result will be the same. Similarly you can get a bit better rolls on Goblet Atk% and a bit worse rolls on Flower Atk%, but you will end up with approximately the same total Atk%. As you can see, StatsPool has decreased dramatically, to the level of StatsPool of 4* Idealistic artifacts. So CR Headpiece is still better than Atk%, but not as much as and idealistic 5*: Atk% is still worse than CR% What is more interesting is that CD-headpiece is even worse, since we can't move subsstats freely anymore, and random doesn't care about 1:2 ratio at all: CD is even worse than Atk% due to very unbalanced CD/CR raio = 4.5!! With 4* and 3* artifacts the tendency is the same. I will skip the setup tables for the sake of clarity and move to the summary: https://preview.redd.it/9y7hyodahm361.png?width=806&format=png&auto=webp&s=5265c189af326e91c7de9603f933825f8d81ca0f We conclude, that with 3* artifacts, even the most ideal ones, stats go like this: Atk% > CR ≥ CD - you should always prefer Atk% to CR and CR to CD, depending on your CD/CR ratio. Even very good realistic 4* artifacts have only 6.19 StatsPool, which is pretty close to 5.73 borderline value when Atk% is always better than Crit. So in general we have CR ≥ Atk% > CD. You always prefer CR and Atk% to CD, since otherwise it's very hard to get 2:1 CD:CR ratio. And you chose between Atk% and CR depending on CD:CR ratio and artifact quality - worse your stats more you should incline to Atk%. With good 5* artifacts CR is almost always better than Atk% and CD, which are approximately equal: CR > Atk% ≥ CD. ________________________________________________________________ Other dps characters and weaponsYou must keep in mind that StatsPool depends not only on the Artifacts, but on the Character and the weapon as well.Higher quality weapons though both increase stats pool due to higher bonuses, and reduce it due to higher BaseAtk value, but generally 5* swords increase StatsPool. For example here the Razor StatsPools and DMGfactors with Wolf's Gravestone: Wolf's Gravestone makes CR even more preferable You can see how CR becames even more preferable, and CD just a bit more preferable, staying at about the same importance as Atk%. All these changes due to +42% atk bonus increase, which increases StatsPool almost by 1 point. But the stat you add matters a lot. If you weapon provides CD, like with Blackcliff Slasher, then CD on artifacts becames clearly worse - Atk% is always better than CD then. Blackcliff Slasher makes CD even less preferable Similarly some character have CR,CD,Atk% stats as character assention bonuses, which can rise StatsPool, leading to even more preference of the Crit. But, even more than with weapons, you need to take into account the type of the stat increased. For example Diluc with CR bonus greatly reduces average CD:CR ratio, making CD on artifact much better choice. So now on 5* both CR and CD are about the same and one should look on their CD:CR ratio before deciding on which one to go: CR ≥ CD > Atk%. And on 4* CD is even better than CR, since 4* arts don't have enough stats to balance out Diluc's CR bonus: CD > CR ≥ Atk%. Diluc makes CD more more preferable ________________________________________________________________ Support charactersSupport characters are very special, since all: their ascension, weapon, and artifact sets provide much less CCD/Atk stats, which greatly reduces StatsPool value.As an example I consider Sucrose with Mappa Mere weapon, Timepiece with Elemental mastery main stat and Viridescent VenereInstructor sets. Here are the estimation: Supports will have dramatically less StatsPool, making Atk% the preferable stat most of the time As you can see, even for 5* realistic artifacts StatsPool is 5.83, which is very close to 5.73 borderline value, which makes Atk% of about the same value as CR. Also, as you remember, those are very good realistic artefacts with dps substats, and most probably you will have a bit worse artifacts on your supports, or simply will prefer to level artifacts with Elemental Mastery/Energy Recharge substats instead. So most probably StatsPool will be lower and it will be clearly Atk% > CR > CD stat priority, even for 5*. ________________________________________________________________Ending notesJust remember that the given materials talk about average situation, your specific situation can be very different.all the pictures are taken from this spreadsheet. Feel free to play with it, and to put your own artifacts in. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JYAjibyUvt-usRHMr0DXzdmFafKeB5ky788WRw_H3XQ/edit#gid=431165290 To learn more about the case of CR = 100% and what to do if you can't increase CR go to this post. |
Well - Bitcoin is stagnant or deflationary over time, while Dogecoin is inflationary overtime. This is due to the way they are architected and mined, and how new coins are added into their respective markets - covered in other section. What gets misunderstood is which one is “better” or rather "the lesser evil". Since Dogecoin has an “infinite supply”, how can it maintain value?10b) You may have read things like: "You're stupid if you buy Dogecoin. It has no value. It has unlimited supply. It's just a stupid meme." Let's look at the US dollar (or essentially any major FIAT currency of your choice). FIAT currency is created out of thin air. It is backed by large sums of debt, and in the normal course of the economy it is inflating endlessly. But FIAT currency does have value. It's a value assigned to it by governments and people, a commonly accepted means for exchange. Again, FIAT does not have a limited supply. In fact, the supply of the US dollar is a lot more inflationary than Doge would ever be. Please think about that for a moment and make up your own mind.
If Bitcoin wants to become a real global currency with buying power, not just a speculation tool to exchange it for a few thousand debt based USD, when it hits a new record high every few months or years, its supply will have to grow inevitably. We have to see the bigger picture! Dogecoin may well climb to one US dollar, but why stop and sell there? Instead, we could build a new, fair, balanced monetary ecosystem based on Dogecoin, not to make a quick profit, but to change the whole world. Our current money is backed by signatures on debt contracts, not on real values. But it works, because we believe in it, even if it will be our downfall if it continues like this. Dogecoin is different. Dogecoin has a set amount of coins entering the market by the minute. There are plenty of spreadsheets out there showcasing exactly how much many Dogecoin will be in circulation at any given moment of time. People get confused because they think inflation is a bad thing, when in fact it is actually beneficial in small quantities and beneficial to the longevity of a currency. Dogecoin doesn't need a supply limit like Bitcoin, because in the long run it will be much easier to exchange Dogecoin for goods and services, than with other crypto currencies or regular currencies for that matter. If Bitcoin wants to become a real global currency with buying power, not just a speculation tool to exchange it for a few thousand debt based USD when it hits a new record high every few months or years, it's supply will have to grow inevitably.
Hi all, the following guide is intended to be for players who are struggling to reach the last tiers of the recent Paws of Loki (PoL from now on) mode. It's an "intermediate" guide, which means I'm assuming that players are already familiar with the basic rules of PoL (and of Fire Emblem Heroes, of course). At the moment I'm writing, I can manage to stay in the last tier of PoL with minimal investment and being a f2p (with an average score of 14,5k). So, if you're already scoring 14k or more in PoL, you're not exactly the target of this guide, but if you still want to read it it's not impossible that you'll find some useful tips anyway. Keep in mind that this is just my personal approach to the mode, which I feel it is the best for my situation (a long time f2p player) but it is not necessary the best one for everybody. submitted by reid4891 to FireEmblemHeroes [link] [comments] Keep in mind that 14k is calculated on 12 turns (only t9 and t10 I think): in lesser tiers you play less turns, so you will score less. I divided the guide in six big sections: intro, building the brigade, building the units, strategical play, tactical play, pro tips. If I can think of something more, I will update it. If you want to share any tips or criticism, feel free to do it (please, let's stay civil). 1 - INTROThe key feature of PoL is that you'll be able to use your friends' main units. In order to exploit this aspect to the best, it's recommended that you keep among your friends active players who can share something interesting and/or unique and it's even better if you can manage to actually talk to some of them like in Reddit or in a discord group to have them provide some kind of units that you lack. Still, it's entirely possible to make it without this, so don't be discouraged if you can't and try to follow this guide.In this guide, we will focus on playing at intermediate level with a melee/dragon team. There are other valid combo, but in terms of availability this is definitely the best option. You can use something different of course, since most of my tips can be extended to other compositions. So, let's start. 2- BUILDING THE BRIGADEThis is the most important aspect of PoL, and this is also the one for which I'll try to change your approach the most. Lots of people will just fill the brigade with either strong units or bulky ones in term of HPs, since your scores will be mostly dependent by the difference between your HPs and enemies HPs (assuming some enemies survived). This is not incorrect, but here I'll give you a different approach.Go to an empty Brigade, filter only Melee/Dragons, then click on Update Friends and go to "Your Allies". Here, sort them by HP. Write down the highest 10 melee and 10 dragons units. In my case they are: Arden, Effie, Haar, Astram, Marisa, Ross, Charlotte, B!Hector, V!Ike, Ike. Duma, L!Corrin, Fae, Nowi, F!Tiki, Ena, H!Myrrh, Sothis, Myrrh, L!Tiki. This is where things get tricky. Some people will be tempted to just randomly add those units, but let's proceed differently. Let's ask ourselves this question: what's the best 26 combo team that I can do using them? You'll need a team made of the "Magnificent Seven" units: 1 dragon of each color, a sword, a lance and axe. Among them, you need to have 2 infantry, 2 armored, 2 flyers, 1 cavalry (most likely cavalry will end up being the single one, since there are no cavalry dragons). In my example the answer is: Arden, Haar, /// Duma, Nowi, Ena, Myrrh. As you can see, this combo is the best one for covering 1 dragon of each color, 2 infantry, 2 armored, 2 flyers. What it's lacking to be complete is a cavalry lance, but that was expected because they have few HPs. So, now I go back to my units and add my highest cavalry lance at disposal, Clive. You do something similar, depending what you ended up with. Arden, Haar, Clive Duma, Nowi, Ena, Myrrh. Now, ask yourselves if there is any way to improve this team composition. Do you have any better version of those units in your barracks? Keep in mind that, contrary to your friends units, you can build yours (see next section). In my case, I've a +10 Nowi and a +10A!Tiki, so I'm replacing Nowi and Ena with my units. Second step is to consider this: is there any inversion you can do with any of your units? If you've a superstacked cavalry axe, you can consider use that unit instead of Clive, but you will have to bring on the table a flyer lance to maintain the combo to replace Haar. Are you gaining HPs by doing this exchange or losing them? If the answer is the first option, then do proceed. If the answer is the second option, let's keep everything as it is. If they pretty much stay the same, use the pair you consider is best. In my case: Arden, Haar, Clive Duma, Nowi, A!Tiki, Myrrh. Once you decided your "Magnificent Seven", complete your brigade with filler units, keeping in mind that the best possible replacements are units with the same colotype/movement. If you see that you don't have units of that sort (for example, Myrrh is hardly replaceable in my team), considering adding stacked melee flyers for the 8th position (let's call it bonus slot) in case you miss Myrrh and you've to use another movement type, like Fae. It seems complicated at the beginning, but don't forget that you can always go back and fix the brigade if you spot something unbalanced during your plays. With a bit of experience and practice you'll be able to create your ideal brigade (in my case): Pro tip: notice how NY!Laegjarn will perfectly replace Clive if he's never draft. If Myrrh is never draft, I'll play Fae and use either Cormag or F!Grima. F!Corrin is a valid alternative to Duma, which will likely require running another armor as 8th bonus unit (this is what happened in some of section 4 and 5 explanations). 3- BUILDING THE UNITSThis section is more straightforward: you've gotten some good units and you want to build them for PoL. How do you proceed? Well, there are two key factors to consider, that I like to call "power vs mind".Power is how much the unit can improve your score (basically his HP) and how important is to have the unit deployed on your field as soon as possible. Mind is how much the unit is effective in complex plays and how much she can contribute to overturn an unlucky end game. A typical power build is: A friend's Duma who is stacking HPs as much as possible: he has a very strong PP and he will be extremely powerful in the early/middle part of the game. Units like this Duma, however, can suffer in the endgame when you're facing better enemy units: he has no regenerative special (Sol would be better) and his C skill is contributing to nothing, he's weak against armor and dragon effective weapon. Still, his role as scorebot shouldn't be dismissed. Power builds mostly rely on a double HP+5 as A slot and seal, so you can't go wrong with those. An example of a strong mind build is instead: High stats, regenerative special, effective vs dragons and strong in both phases. An overall solid Fallen Tiki. Notice how this F!Tiki is scoring less than Duma, but can pull you out of many difficult situations: her weapon can one shot many dragons and her C skill will chip surrounding enemy units. Ideal front liner. There are also units who are better with a compromise of power and mind builds, here are my Ross (more power oriented) and Clive (more mind oriented): I built him to stack HPs as much as possible. Even at low levels he will still be able to panic most enemies with Sudden Panic from the rear. While at high levels, he'll be able to contribute to a solid offensive as well with Savage Blow and Sol. A semi-low investment Clive: his weapon is effective against Armors, so at high levels he'll be able to oneshot problematic units like Idunn and chip the surroundings. At low levels, he's best paired against Sword units thanks to SB3 and Noontime. Do not forget, if you can, to feed at least a dragonflower to your units: since they'll gain an extra HP. Summoner Support works as well in PoL, so if you want you can consider it as well. Once you're ready with the preparative, let's start with the actual play. 4- STRATEGICAL PLAYThe overall strategy we have to apply for PoL is quite straightforward, but there are still a couple of concepts I feel it's better to make explicit.
Not merging did pay: we reached 24 combo in previous turn and now we've an obvious merge (F!Corrin) and a less obvious one (Arden), because that would mean to lose the double armor +2 combo. I decided to merge both anyway, then pick Myrrh and A!Tiki, then mulligan. The new draft had an Arden among them, so I swapped the A!Tiki out for 4 gems and took that Arden, to maintain the 24 combo. I had a solid and lucky turn, but the foundation for it was the good play in the previous one.
The payoff finally arrives three turns later: notice how I can make a double merge in this turn: Arden and Haar. Merging Haar now will let me keep the 26 points combo. If we didn't pick Myrrh at that time we would have to choose either to lose 2 points of combo or giving up a merge.
The bet didn't pay, but... there are two Ardens! I can exchange my L!Tiki for a full refund of 5 gems, and with 10 gems I'll be able to get both Arden and merge him (note that Haar is worth only 2 gems, so don't refund him instead of L!Tiki). 2) A similar situation on the following turn: I'll take Arden and Duma, leaving myself with 8 gems. If both show up again, I can exchange Haar for 2 gems and pick them both since they cost 6 and 4. Again, an interesting outcome: only Duma appeared but there are two NY!Laegjarn. Duma will cost 4 gems, so I'm down to 4, but Arden's refund will give me 6 more, for a total 10. I can play both NY!Laegjarn as well. This outcome is clearly lucky, but some players could have chosen to just take Arden and refresh a couple of times hoping to get him or Haar, which isn't the most economical solution. We maximized our gems stack and still got two merges here. 3) A difficult end game situation: I can't make other merges, but considering the board I can exchange L!Tiki for another Arden. He will score more and will provide a tactical advantage on column two, where they can obliterate the biggest enemy units. Overall, the idea paid off quite well. Notice also how my board is reflecting the \"Magnificent Seven\" theory: I'm running Arden, Haar, Clive, Nowi, A!Tiki, Myrrh, F!Corrin, with another Arden as 8th slot. The only difference from the original plan is F!Corrin for Duma, but a minor deviation from the plan is always to be expected.
I've been lucky, but even if I wouldn't have been, there were no other valid options so it was a forced gamble that we had to take. Just be sure to exchange the correct units! If we would have exchanged Duma we wouldn't have had enough gems for Myrrh even if she showed up. Always think before gambling!
5 - TACTICAL PLAYIn Ancient Greece, the term taktikḗ indicated the art of deploying your troops on the battlefield. So how we should we proceed with our units in PoL? Here are my tips:
The tactic did pay off! 2) Kempf is back for a vengeance, but we already know how to deal with him: let's use again Reinhardt, I mean, Arden. Notice how I merged him up in the last turn: it's true that I lose 2 combo, but at this point of the game many units will reach 99 HPs anyway with the combo buffs and having a super strong Arden to dispatch him to avoid disasters seemed more important than a couple of extra points. 6 - PRO TIPS
Turn 3 - 1400 Turn 4 - 2300 Turn 5 - 3400 Turn 6 - 4600 Turn 7 - 5800 Turn 8 - 7100 Turn 9 - 8400 Turn 10 - 9800 Turn 11 - 11200 Turn 12 - 12600 Final score - 14000 Keep these intervals in mind while playing: if your objective is 14k and you're at turn 8 with a score around 6500 the game is already compromised. The ideal thing would be to make a ladder for yourself: write down your intervals while playing, so that you will know the intervals to aim if you want to improve your high score. If you see you're behind by too much, the game is doomed. Quit and restart.
Thanks for having read until this point. If you have questions or suggestions, feel free to ask or post. See you on the board! |
The Free Bet Calculator is the most advanced online sports bet calculator, allowing you to calculate the stake and profit for an extensive range of bets. All of the most popular bet types are supported, including Lucky 15, Single, Double, Accumulator, Patent and Round Robin, along with more specialised bets such as Alphabet, Magnificent 7, Union Jack, and the infamous Bookies Nightmare! Free Bet Calculator. You can use our main free bet calculator below to work out the winning of any bet: Fill in the ENTER BET DETAILS box. Firstly, select your BET TYPE and choose which type of bet you are wanting to calculate the winnings for. Select if the bet was win or each way. Choose the number of selections in your bet (if an accumulator). Rule 4 – If another horse in the race withdraws, your odds and winnings will probably be adjusted Bet Odds # – This is an auto-populated field that refers to the number of the selection. O ur free bet calculator allows you to work out your returns from a variety of bet types including accumulators, Lucky 15s, You can also add a Rule 4 to any selections, which is when a This above tool acts as an each-way bet calculator. Simply tick the relevant box. Rule 4 Rules. A Rule 4 deduction occurs when the winnings of your bet are reduced due to another horse being withdrawn from the race after your bet has been placed. For example, if a horse pulls out of the race at the last minute, and is declared a non-runner. For example, if the bet is priced at 4-1, then it is calculated as 1 / (4+1) = 0.2 which means there is a 20% chance of the outcome happening. The bet return is calculated by multiplying the stake by the odds. A single bet can usually be worked out easily, but when working out a multiple it is advisable to use a bet calculator. At the Free Bet Calculator we understand that not everybody has access to the ‘latest and greatest’ device with which to browse the Internet. So instead of simply discarding the old bet calculator every time there is a major new release, it will be added to the gallery of Old Bet Calculators, where it will remain until it is no longer used. This page contains the version of the Free Bet Rule 4 will be applied by both the bookmaker and the exchange, so if you have already backed and layed then you do not need to do anything.! Useful guide: Free Matched Betting Glossary One issue you may come across is if you're doing the popular Bet365 4/1 offer and you bet on a horse at 5.0 before a rule 4 occurs. You will then repeat that process however many times is necessary – for example, if you have placed multiple bets – and then may also be able to add information related to Dead Heats or any situation when Rule 4 may have come into play. The latter offers compensation in the event that a horse withdraws from a race after a bet is placed. A Free Bet Calculator function allows bettors to calculate the payout from a free bet or bonus. This can be very useful when deciding which bonus to activate at a sportsbook or to calculate the minimum and maximum which can be won using the free bet or bonus. The rule 4 calculator function allows bettors to account for rule 4 deductions in
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